
Nick Hargrove on the deck of the buyboat Bivalve he uses for deploying shells to Chesapeake Bay oyster bars. His rapidly growing Tilghman Island Seafood operation is located just over the drawbridge at Knapps Narrows. DENNIS FORNEY PHOTO
“At Tilghman Island Seafood, we collaborate closely with watermen who are dedicated to the Chesapeake Bay’s unique ecosystem. These local watermen recognize that their livelihoods are deeply connected to the health of our waters. We are committed to balancing productive fishing with responsible practices to help secure the Bay’s future.” – FromTilghman Island Seafood’s promotional marketing material
Rumplestiltskin perfected a method for spinning straw into gold. A pretty neat trick.
Now some latter-day local Rumplestiltskins– swapping American ingenuity for the spinning wheel–are doing something similar except with invasive catfish and oyster shells instead of straw.
Blue catfish ravaging Chesapeake Bay’s crabbing and finfish industries, and millions of tons of discarded and aging oyster shells on Washington’s Pacific coast are proving profitable for enterprising watermen. Ecological benefits are also part of this unique equation.
Nick Hargrove of Tilghman Island Seafood and his oyster partners at Dorchester County’s Farm Creek Oyster Farm and Madison Shell Recycling–brothers Alex and Benny Horseman–are in the thick of what is shaping up to be an inspired renaissance for the Chesapeake seafood industry. Inspired, because Hargrove’s marketing of catfish from coast to coast is helping control a damaging invasive species, while importing discarded west coast oyster shells is helping address the scarcity of local oyster shells needed for restoration of the Chesapeake’s oyster populations. Good for the oyster industry. and good for cleaning the Bay’s waters.
That, in turn, is solving Pacific Seafood’s dilemma of what to do with endless piles of oyster shells discarded after their meats have been harvested.
“Pacific Seafood is one of the West Coast’s largest seafood processors,” said Hargrove in a recent interview. “Up until now the only use for the shells has been by Washington state for nature trails. They looked at us like we were crazy when we told them we thought we could use them all. We’re talking about seven million or so tons of old oyster shells, piled up in heaps forty and fifty feet tall.”
So, while Hargrove has been building a nationwide network of catfish sales, including Whole Foods and other seafood purveyors, he and his oyster partners successfully completed the lengthy process necessary to receive Maryland’s first permit for importing non-native shells for restoration and aquaculture.
After the permit process to ensure the old and aged imported shells won’t create another invasive species problem, it appears the west coast trove will meet decades of need for replenishing, rebuilding and seeding the Bay’s oyster bars. “The big deal for the permitting was the fact that these west coast shells are domestic and not foreign,” said Hargrove.
When weather isn’t hampering catfish and oyster harvesting, as ice is doing now, Hargrove’s operations handle 100,000 pounds of fresh catfish filets and 1,000 bushels of oysters per week.
He employs 30 people in processing and about 70 watermen who harvest the oysters and catfish.
“It’s a lot of responsibility and requires lots of capital,” said Hargrove.
“Ice in the upper Chesapeake is keeping our catfish watermen in and that’s hampering our production,” he said recently. “We like to handle about 20,000 pounds of filets a day, but in weather like this we’re lucky to get 20,000 pounds a week. Demand is exceeding our ability to supply, but that goes with this business. There will always be ups and downs. We’ve learned to bob and weave.”
The juggling act is continuous: perfecting marketing and sales, creating new products like catfish nuggets, seeking legislation to further enhance catfish harvesting, and making plans for meeting spring and summer planting demands for oyster shells being trucked east.
“Right now I’m working with Sen. Johnny Mautz on a bill that would allow electric-shock fishing for catfish,” said Hargrove. “That would be particularly helpful for the summer when the fish aren’t as hungry.”
At the same time, he and his partners are figuring out how many oyster shells they will be able to sell to the state for this year’s demands. The state buys loads of bushels with attached spat–baby, tick-sized oysters–as well as bare shells.
Bare shells are deployed to help rebuild oyster bars with material that attracts naturally occurring oyster spat in the Bay’s waters. Spa- on-shell are used to seed sanctuary, public fishery and leased aquaculture bottom where proper substrate, also known as cultch, already exists.
Chris Judy, director of Maryland’s shellfish division, said the west coast oyster shells–of the crassostrea gigas species–are proving effective at attracting spat. “They have been properly assessed and approved, and have the added advantage of being less expensive than shell bought from Virginia. Even being shipped all the way across the country they are still less expensive than the shells from Virginia,” said Judy.
He said west coast gigas shells, as well as crushed concrete and rocks, have been tested by University of Maryland’s Horn Point Laboratory in Dorchester County as possible alternatives to the native crassostrea virginica oyster shells typically used for restoration. Because of demand up and down the Chesapeake, in Maryland and Virginia for restoration projects, native shells–recycled after harvesting and shucking–are in short supply.
In laboratory conditions, the gigas shells proved the most effective of all the alternatives at attracting spat. They even proved more effective than native shells included as part of the test.
“That was in laboratory conditions,” said Judy. “In the Bay waters, in more variable conditions, the gigas shells performed better than native shells in some areas, equal to them in other areas, and not as well in some areas.
“We deployed about 89,000 bushels of gigas shells last May and June–just shells–in places like Tangier Sound, Honga River and Harris Creek to improve the oyster bars, the spat set and to enhance the industry,” said Judy. “When we checked on them again in the fall, we found they had worked well. A favorable spat set. They do the job, as do the other alternatives, but these are more cost effective. Concrete and rocks also work as a substrate for catching spat, but they are more expensive.”

Hot-off-the-press printed materials developed by Tilghman Island Seafood are helping build nation-wide sales of Chesapeake Bay catfish
The gigas shells, said Judy, will be a “major contribution” to what is already being accomplished in Maryland’s oyster restoration efforts.
Over the next two months, Judy said the shellfish division will be contacting various county oyster committee officials to determine their preferences for where in 2025 they would like bare oyster shells and spat-on-shell planted. Those discussions will also include what kind of shells would be preferred.
Between federal funds, state capital funds, sanctuary funds, bushel taxes, oyster export taxes and surcharge fees paid by watermen for oystering licenses, the state has millions of dollars to spend over the next few years for planting bare shells, seeding with spat on shell, and other restoration efforts.
That is in addition to other efforts such as Oyster Restoration Partnership initiatives which included hundreds of millions of spat on shell deployed in 2024.
Judy said that given the attractiveness of the West Coast gigas shells supply and their cost effectiveness, the amount the shellfish division buys this year will be up to how much Hargrove wants to sell and the amount funding will allow. He said that includes bare shells and spat-on-shell for public fishery bars, and for whatever may be available for the state’s oyster sanctuaries.
Hargrove said he sees the gigas shells as a game changer. “We received our permit to use the shells in August of 2022. In 2023 we deployed about 100,000 bushels of spat-on-shell, and 180,000 bushels in 2024. That’s for public and private ground seeding efforts. We deployed more spat-on-shell bushels on private grounds than on public grounds and that’s a first.” They also deployed hundreds of thousands of bushels of bare gigas shells for bottom restoration purposes.
Hargrove said he used a pen and the back of a napkin to design the oyster-tanks-and-cages system he uses for his spat-on-shell operation at the Tilghman Island Seafood complex.
Using larvae purchased from oyster hatcheries like Horn Point, near Cambridge, and Ferry Cove, near Tilghman, he blends them into cages filled with about 30 bushels of oyster shells in tanks pumped full of Bay water from Knapps Narrows.
The larvae take about two weeks to attach to the bare shells. “When the spat are about the size of a tick on the shells, we lift the cages out of the tanks and transport them to a hopper and conveyor belt. We load them on the decks of buy boats we use to take them to the bars designated by the different state and county entities.
“We’re getting the resources we need,” said Hargrove, “and the industry is starting to grow. Now we have access to the shells we need, access to all the larvae we need for spat–Ferry Cove is doing a helluva job–and we have the capacity to exceed the state’s needs and handle private aquaculture needs as well. Plus, we can do it cheaper than buying from Virginia and keep all the money in Maryland instead.”
Judy said results from the annual statewide fall oyster survey in October will be released in March. “Generally speaking, the Bay received a spat set, and the survival rate was good. The spat from the tremendous, widely distributed set we saw in 2023 are growing now to smalls. That’s all positive news.”

Nick Hargrove provided this image of a small portion of the West Coast treasure trove of discarded and aged oyster shells now filling a missing link in the Chesapeake oyster restoration initiative. The heaps of shells, like ancient Native American middens, are located on Pacific Seafood’s property in Washington state.
Dennis Forney has been a publisher, journalist, and columnist on the Delmarva Peninsula since 1972. He writes from his home on Grace Creek in Bozman.